Art 151 News

Friday, January 8, 2021

Art 151 syllabus

Levon Parian
Art 151 (Photography As Art) Spring 2021
Office Hours: 12:15- 12:45 Tuesday & Thursday
e-mail: levon.parian.384@csun.edu

Blog: Art 151 News

Course Objectives

To provide a basic understanding of the principles of photography from an artistic perspective. Initial emphasis will be on technical understanding of the functions of the camera with its relationship to exposure and light. As the class progresses, the emphasis will shift to composition, design, intent, and subject matter. In this class, you will not be required to process film or make prints. (Available for General Education, Subject Explorations: Lifelong Learning)

Course Requirements

Text- A Short Course in Digital Photography by Barbara London & Jim Stone- for digital and film shooters.

An single lens digital reflex (DSLR) or mirrorless camera with manual controls is required for the class.

A minimum of six assignments will be handed in.

There will be a written mid-term exam on information from readings and lectures.

The final exam will be in the form of a slide or Power Point presentation.

Attendance and participation are mandatory.
Three tardies or two unexcused absences will drop your grade by 10 points.
No "incomplete" grade for no-shows.

Grading Breakdown

Following directions is an important part of the grade. I will give you a technical assignment and you need to complete it as requested. Then make interesting images that use the technique.

(100 points possible)
Assignments              70
Written test              15
Final Presentation     15

Final Grade Breakdown

A    93-100     A- 90-92
B+ 88-89        B 83-87     B- 80-82
C+ 78-79       C 73-77     C- 70-72
D+ 68-69       D 63-67     D- 60-62

Equipment and Supplies

Digital SLR camera with manual controls and working light meter.
Gray card
Tripod and cable release (optional).
Computer for downloading and sending images from your camera.

Photography Supply Stores

Freestyle / 5124 West Sunset Blvd, Hollywood 323-660=3460

Samy’s Camera / 431 South Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles 323-938-2420
                             585 Venice Blvd., Venice 310-450-4551
                             1759 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena 626-796-3300
                              4411 Sepulveda Blvd., Culver City, 310-450-4551

Assignments:

Grey card test: testing camera metering and exposure accuracy.

Looking at Light – shots from the same location at different times of day. With the concentration on shape, form, texture and color temperature.

Depth of Field – photographing single plain of focus by using aperture settings. Concentrating on Color and Composition to add depth.

Motion - capturing movement by adjusting shutter speed.

Portraiture- use of light and expression to bring out the unique qualities of a face.

Bulb – Creative use of long exposures.

Series – A series of images presented as a narrative or a non-narrative group.

Buying an SLR camera

Digital camera on the left and film camera on the right- notice the back of the film camera opens to load film and the digital does not, but rather has an LED screen for reviewing images.

Some students have been asking me about purchasing cameras, what to look for etc. First you need to get an SLR or "single lens reflex" camera. This camera has a mirror system behind the lens that pulls up and out of the way when you open the shutter to expose the film, or digital sensor to light. (Mirrorless digital cameras with fully manual features are allowed, but must be approved) This mechanism allows the photographer to see through the lens for composing and focusing. Usually the lenses are removable and usually the camera has manual features for total exposure control. The four manual controls that are important to look for are:

1) An adjustable aperture -also known as f-stops (opening in the lens)
2) An adjustable shutter (in the camera body) with a "Bulb" setting
3) focus ring (on the lens) for manual focus
4) ISO adjustment (on the body) to change the sensitivity of your meter and sensor.

From my experience, Canon, Nikon and Sony have been the preferred cameras because of their optics and professional orientation, but Olympus, Pentax and Minolta, are also recognized quality cameras (usually better priced). With most new cameras you will have LED readouts. I would recommend that you use a digital camera in this class because processing slide film has become difficult to do. That being said, it is quite alright to use a “film” camera for this class. Just talk to me about the requirements. Get an SLR with at least a 50mm (or normal) manual focusing lens (zooms in the 35-80 range are good). Also make sure that the camera allows both “shutter” and “aperture” manual control (f-stops at ½ stop increments, shutter speeds from 1/500 to Bulb). If you don’t know what this means, ask in class or your sales person.

Shop around and ask a lot of questions, ask about used cameras as well as new ones. Next pick up each of your possible camera candidates and adjust the f-stops and the shutter speeds. Keep in mind that as you shoot in the manual mode, you want these actions to be fluid and easy. Take a shot; adjust the f-stop 1/2 stop up and then 1/2 stop down. Change your shutter speed and make sure there is a “B” (bulb) setting. For a used camera, open the back of the camera (for film) and look for wear and tear. If there is a big dent anywhere be hesitant, that camera has been dropped! For used digital cameras take off the lens and look through it and behind the mirror for damage to the sensor, also make sure the auto focus works correctly, since that is usually the first thing to go. Make sure the meter is working and is reacting to changes in light. Fire the shutter and advance it making sure that it advances smoothly. Compare the ease of use for each camera especially the metering system, does the camera tell you what f-stop and shutter speed you are set at in the viewfinder? Then try the focus in the manual mode, see if the camera can focus "macro" and try it out. See how close you can get to something in focus. Then if it has a zoom lens extend it to the most telephoto mode and focus in and out with the manual focus (Can you easily tell when you are in focus?) When comparing the lenses of the different cameras check what the smallest f-stop number and the largest f-stop numbers are (An f-4 lens should cost less than an f-2.8 lens from the same manufacturer, but the f-2.8 would be more desirable if you are shooting in low light conditions). The smaller the f-number, the more light allowed through the lens, which means there is more glass which means more money. Next, how does it fit in your hands, is the viewer bright and easy to look through, and does the camera fit comfortably to your face. Also check to see if the camera has a “hot shoe” or cord attachment for an external flash (not mandatory, but a nice option to have).

If you are still not sure look the camera model up on line and see what consumer groups say about that particular model. There is a glut of good used “film” cameras on the market since many photographers are switching to digital, shop around for the best deal. Have in mind what you plan to do with your camera after this class, is it just a hobby or are you planning to make it an element of your career? That will help you decide how much money to spend.

Also, get a written guarantee that if the camera cannot be used in a fully manual mode for this class, that the store or seller will refund your money if you return it within one week or so after classes start. That way I can look it over in class. With used cameras make sure that you get a 90-day warranty that the store will refund or replace the camera. A used camera will do you no good if it’s in the repair department for 6 or 8 weeks!

I hope that helps you choose. Don’t worry if you are still confused, we will go over all this information. But you must have a camera to use by the first week of class.

Wednesday, January 6, 2021

Grey Card Test

The idea of the grey card test is to make sure your camera is working accurately. First we are checking the metering system. Also we are making sure that your camera works in the manual mode with varying f-stops and shutter speeds.

Using the rule of thumb in bright sunlight: f16 over 1/ISO, start the process at ISO 100 shooting at f16 at 1/100 or somewhere near that. Meter a grey card in bright sunlight. See if your meter is far off from that reading, if not, set your meter to what it says and take a picture. This will be your "normal" reading. Bracket in half "stop" increments in each direction. Make sure to label your information so you can go back and understand what you did. We will shoot in JPEG mode only. Do not use the RAW feature for exposure. We do this because we will not be manipulating the image after the exposure (no Photoshop or Lightroom).

This test will help your eye see the difference 1/2 or 1 stop makes to the overall look of the picture. You will understand how to adjust your exposure if you are off slightly. Also, by bracketing, you may find later when you enlarge the photo that you need information in the shadows or highlights and you can choose an exposure that best suites your needs.

The next part of this assignment is to photograph 30 normal exposures of different subjects in bright daylight. Shoot 15 images looking through the view finder; composing shape and form highlighted by directional light. Here, light is the hero. Walk around your subject and look carefully to make sure the 3 dimensional qualities and texture of the subject are expressed by the light. Then shoot 15 more shots, this time not looking through the view finder. These exposures should also be shot at normal exposure (according to your meter) but without looking through the viewfinder. Try to feel the images you want to create and don't worry about the mechanics of operating the camera. Don't repeat shots you have already taken. Always keep the camera in manual mode for this, do not revert to auto focus and exposure.

I would like you to show your work in class.

Choose 6 images from what you photographed, three looking through the view finder and 3 not looking through the view finder.

Hand in via "We Transfer" to my email:

folder labeled "Grey Card Test"
then in that folder place 3 folders:
-First one labeled "Test" -7-8 grey card images each labeled with
f-stop and shutter speed-
make sure to indicate your normal.
-Second labeled "Viewfinder" (10 images)
-Third labeled "No View" (10 images)

Watch the videos on histograms below:

Some informational videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBshTYrFbKI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxJSpxh_r90

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pehFC05cohw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xg7_meg77Qw&feature=player_embedded

Histograms:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMGr6ze7kwY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rp_cP_46Zdk

Setting your camera, but for this class we will use jpeg and not RAW:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoXzRIpSpxQ

Perspective:
https://www.artistsnetwork.com/art-mediums/drawing/learn-to-draw-perspective/
http://whsdesignandphoto.weebly.com/formspace--perspective.html

Camera Metering:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEw8ufCvgqk

Diopter focus adjustment

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0HDqYSbs9E

Assignment #1 “Looking at Light”

Early AM (around 7:30AM)

Noon

Late Afternoon (around 7:00PM)
{The above pictures where taken facing south. A flag was used to protect my lens from the sun.} Look at how the mountains change shape as the sun rotates.

___________________________________________________

-Using the sun as your light source this assignment will help you understand the different qualities of light during the course of the day. Overcast and cloudy days offer even more options of light quality.

-While shooting remember that “natural light” is the star of this assignment. Find a location that has a background, middle ground and foreground. Remember that defining shape and form with light is what we are looking for. Choose spheres, cylinders, and squares for your subjects. And don’t be so far away from the foreground that you can’t tell what it is (make sure your entire picture isn't "background").
(No pictures of dorms!!!!!)

-Aim your camera North if possible so the sun rotates overhead and behind you. That way you don’t have to worry about the sun in your lens. If you decide to shoot towards the South make sure your lens is protected from the sun with a lens shade or a flag of some kind.

-Choose a subject that you can shoot at least four (minimum) different times of day- early morning, noon, late afternoon, dusk or evening. Set up your camera in the same spot each time. (Place your tripod and mark your location or find a stationary object that you can use as a stand.) The final images should look like the camera has not been moved, so the cropping is the same. You don't have to shoot all the times in one day. You can shoot on different days, but make sure your image composition and angles match. If you have a zoom lens be aware of what the setting is and keep it there for the entire set of shots.

-As you shoot keep a log of each shot. Record the time of day, shutter speed, and f-stop of each exposure. Your exposure will change as the light changes. So use a grey card and read your meter accurately. Make sure to bracket your exposures by ½ stop in each direction from what your meter reads.

-Choose the best exposures from your bracketed images and place them in a file labeled "#1 Looking at Light" with your name and class day. Label each image 1 thru 4 or how ever many times of the day you shot so that they are in order from earliest to latest. Label each image with shutter speed, f-stop and time of day. Send me the edited images for grading. I will be looking at good exposure, lighting and quality of location for interesting variation in light. Make sure you find a location that has a clear foreground, middle ground and background.

-Write one typed paragraph about the light and why you chose your subject for this assignment- to be handed in with assignment or added to "We Transfer" comments. Don't forget to add your name and which day, Tuesday or Thursday you are attending.

-Shoot JPEG in camera not RAW. DO NOT MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS TO THE IMAGES BEFORE HANDING IN. Here is some information on shooting raw vs jpeg:
http://digital-photography-school.com/raw-vs-jpeg

Samples of student work:

7:50AM 1/99 F16 iso 640

10:33AM 1/99 F16 iso100

12:33PM 1/99 F16 iso100

6:11PM 1/99 F16 iso 800 Abdulaziz Salamah

f-11 1/30th sec 7:09AM

f11 1/250th sec 7:52AM

f-18 1-250th sec 11:50AM cloudy midday

f14 1/250th sec 4:33PM

f-10 1/160th sec 5:57PM Matt Alegrete

9:30am f16 1-200

2:30pm f-16 1-200

5:30pm f-8 1-80

5:40pm Dusk f8 1-25 William (Hyun Jun) Park

Color temperature according to time of day:

Videos to watch:

Understanding Color:

https://vimeo.com/85463399

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nX0DHd5QNS8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj1FK8n7WgY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP0OyqECAS4
Primary and Secondary colors:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hbxy1W9O_Wk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n9BzzWy4zY
(turn off the music on this last one)

Tuesday, January 5, 2021

Assignment #2 "Depth of Field"

f 22 at 1/60 50mm lens

f 11 at 1/250 50mm lens

f 4 at 1/2000 50mm lens

Your first assignment is “Depth of Field”. Read the information in your book and instruction manual. Choose a subject(s) that has meaning to you.

Photograph the same ("non-moving") subject in three exposures without moving the camera position. Thinking in terms of distances from the camera, try sensing a foreground, middle ground and background in your shot. Look at the lighting and make sure shapes are being distinguished. Focus on the foreground or near middle ground. Do not change your focus once you begin shooting a set. Before you shoot make sure your exposure range will work for the light you choose. You may want to start wide open (f2.8 or 4) and make sure that your shutter speed will match the scene on both ends of the scale. Slight adjustments of your ISO are OK. You want to plan to complete the assignment in the same kind of light throughout.

First use a wide f –stop (2.8 or 4 ). (If you use the lowest or highest f number you won't be able to bracket past it- that's OK just bracket in one direction). Adjust the shutter speed to get a normal exposure. When you bracket on this assignment, use your aperture settings (like you did in the grey card test: ½ stop each way). Then take a shot at f-8 and finally at f-16 or 22 or whatever the smallest aperture your lens has. When you finish a set of shots, you should have 7- 9 exposures taken all of the same scene.

After shooting your initial set, create a variation. If you have a zoom lens set your lens at 50 mm for first set of shots and for a variation zoom in at least to 80mm and repeat the first part of the assignment. If you don’t have a zoom, but a fixed lens, then move into the foreground object as close as it will focus and repeat the first part of the assignment. Try macro if you have it.

f22 at 1/50 all this set shot at ISO 160 with a focal length of 85mm

f9 at 1/320

f5.6 at 1/800

Variation- moved in closer f22 at 1/40

f9 at 1/250

f5.6 at 1/640 Levon Parian

For a more technical interpretation of Depth of Field visit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34jkJoN8qOI
or
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm

Understanding Lenses and Perspective:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsrNjycYUdQ

https://www.artistsnetwork.com/art-mediums/drawing/learn-to-draw-perspective/

Next, using what you have learned about depth of field, shoot a portrait. Adjust your distance to the subject and try the same idea with the different f-stops to create "shallow" (f2.8-f5.6)and "great"(f11-f22) depth of field variations. If you have it, a longer focal length lens 85-200 is preferred for portraiture. If you have a zoom lens, stretch out the focal length as far as it will go. If you only have a fixed lens, just use that.

Please don’t forget to label your images and hand in a typed paragraph about why you took the pictures and what you learned or what problems you had or solved. Also, think about what you are shooting! Being an Art class, you can choose any subject you like, so I want you to choose subjects that reflect something important to or about you. Let's see some creativity.

The portraits below were shot at f16 and f4 respectively. Notice at f16 the leaves of the plants are still defined. The f4 version has less definition in the background, but still gives a sense of place.

Monday, January 4, 2021

Assignment #3 "Motion"

Levon Parian

Your third assignment is “Motion” and I would like you to think about capturing movement by experimenting with your camera’s shutter speeds.

Remember a longer shutter speed refers to the shutter remaining open to light for a longer time. To compensate for longer exposure time, use a higher f-stop number (smaller aperture) or change the time of day you are shooting.

Try two different types of shots to create motion: First move the camera at the same speed as a moving object and take its picture. This is called “panning” the camera. When panning, make sure that you pre-focus and pre-judge your exposure and mark a spot where the moving object is going to pass near you. Follow the moving object and take the picture on your mark continuing to follow the object after the shot to keep your action smooth (follow through the motion). Try panning at 1/500, 1/125. 1/60, 1/15 and 1/4 of a second. Bracket your f-stops in ½ stop increments for each of these shutter speeds.

Make sure you write down all the information on each shot and label them so that you can go back and see the affect each shutter speed has on the image. Also don’t forget that if your subject is close to you and moving quickly you will have a different affect than if it is further away and moving slowly. Stick to the same subject for a set of exposures so that you can compare the effect of the different shutter speeds. Always safety first, remember having a camera in your hands does not shield you from an on coming vehicle!

Next photograph motion with your camera in a stationary position and allow objects to move in front of your frame. Place the camera on a tripod or some stationary object and if you have a shutter release cable use that to reduce the chance of camera shake. Once again adjust your exposures using the same 5 shutter speeds as mentioned in the previous set with the pan. Good exposures will be considered in the grading.

Now shoot with the Bulb feature. Choose your best 3 with the camera in motion. Then 3 with the camera still. Put them in separate folders and label. Remember the shutter will remain open as long as your finger is on the shutter in Bulb. In "Time" (if you have it) when you press the shutter button, it stays open until you press it again. In a sense you can lock Bulb open with the "Time" feature.

Look for interesting solutions and ideas; I want your pictures to start reflecting an inquisitive train of thought and exploring visual concepts. Think about how the world around us is constantly moving. Use depth of field to isolate your subject and create a poetic interpretation.

panned images

camera on moving vehicle

camera stationary

Nancy Parida -Bulb -camera stationary

Sunday, January 3, 2021

assignment #4 is Portraiture.

environmantal portrait of - Matisse by Henri Cartier-Bresson

I would like to see some creativity here...
Shoot all three of the following categories:

1) Environmental - Have your subject in their own environment
or place them somewhere that adds harmony or even conflict to
the subject. Questions to ask yourself- what are they
wearing? Who are they? What special ideas do I want to
present to the viewer about this person?
Always bracket and try different shutter speeds for affect.

Picasso by Newman

2) Close-up - Usually this means a shot where the head fills
the frame and it may or may not include the shoulders. Be
careful with this one. Longer lenses 80 mm+ usually work
best, but I know some of you only have 50mm (normal) lenses.
Also be aware of harsh shadows on the face. Try to find a
place where the light bounces off a white wall so the the
light has a nice even glow but not direct sunlight. (This
will keep the squinting down too). Bracket!

Carolyn Smith (portrait assignment Spring 2007)

Self portrait Graham Nash

3) Self Portrait- this may be the hardest one for most of
you. First think about an interesting way to present
yourself. Then find interesting lighting. A tripod will help
and most of you have a timer on the camera so that you can
trip the shutter and run to the other side of the camera.
Mirrors are OK and so are images that imply your presence.
Plan this out so you don't get a bunch of backs and “oops” shots.

Bracket and use different shutter speeds to enhance the idea
of your picture. We now are getting to the point where I need
to start seeing some creative solutions to these assignments. Composition, lighting, and subject will be important in my grading. I need 3 images for each of the three categories.
More lighting and composing information:

http://digital-photography-school.com/6-portrait-lighting-patterns-every-photographer-should-know

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-create-portraits-that-captivate-and-intruige

Nadine Linares (Self Portrait Spring 2006)

Saturday, January 2, 2021

Bulb Assignment #5

Anacrisina Morales (Bulb assignment -camera moves- Spring 2007)

Joseph Galli (Bulb assignment -camera stands still- Spring 2007)

Remember that when you press down on the bulb feature, your camera’s shutter remains open until you release it (by removing your finger from the shutter trip). Some cameras have a lock you can use to keep the bulb open while you run around and paint with light…

There are many ways to utilize the painting with light idea. You should make these pictures either at night outside, or in a darkened room inside. I would like to see two versions, one with the camera stationary and one with the camera moving.

For the stationary version, set up the camera on a tripod or solid object, if your camera does not lock in the bulb position, get a friend to help or go with a very long exposure (5 seconds or whatever your meter might say the ambient light is). Walk into the scene and flash (with a small hand strobe or a flashlight) objects or people in that scene. If the scene is dark enough, you can leave the shutter open long enough to light much of the scene. Be careful of exposure- overexposing could ruin the affect.

The second part of the assignment requires moving the camera. Hold the camera shutter open on bulb and walk around in a dark room or outside and flash in something. In other words, you could open the shutter on a city or street scene outside keeping your finger on bulb, cover the lens move the camera and either shoot some other scene (on top of the old one) or flash in something into the scene.

Experiment with these ideas and see what you can come up with. I would like to see your subject matter transcend daily existence and become fantasy, poetry and down right strange!

For this Bulb assignment, I want 2 folders: one "camera moves" and one "camera still" place 3 final shots in each folder.

Deliver Me by Drew Nikonowicz

Websites to check out:
History:
http://lightpaintingphotography.com/light-painting-history/
Images:
http://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=s&hl=en&biw=1944&bih=1110&q=light+painting&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=3241l6401l0l7053l14l14l0l5l5l0l268l1692l0.6.3l9l0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
Techniques:

1) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkxUDJfcW4E

2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gi74B241b6k

Steel Wool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJkBLMhXvcQ

Orbs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asx13Ah_xpk
More:
https://petapixel.com/2014/03/10/photog-gives-light-back-world-painting-lights-street-art-project/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_ub72GnEVQ
https://vimeo.com/14230624

Friday, January 1, 2021

Final Project Assignment #6

Ashanti Brown "Tattoos" (non-narrative)

Vlad Artazov-Nail Photography Series (non-narrative)

Jordon Ross-Favorite Desert (non-narrative)

Victor Perez- Coffee (narrative)

For your final assignment I want you to create a series of 5-7 photos that are related in a narrative or non-narrative way. This assignment requires coming up with an idea and following through with images. Here you will have to "make" photos instead of just taking them. Keep your idea simple and "do-able". Look around you for interesting objects and make stories revolving around them. Keep the story simple and think out how you can represent it visually.

A narrative story has a beginning, middle, and end. So if you were to take 5 shots of some kind of event that the sequence needed to be in a specific order, 1-5 to get the story across, that would be a narrative series. One example would be if you photographed someone who went to the market to get groceries and then came home, put some of the groceries away and then cooked dinner for a friend- that would be a narrative series. The couple having trouble opening their umbrella by Elliot Erwin has potential as a narrative story. Also think about Duane Michael's photo fictions like, "Death comes to the lady" or his miniature bathroom series.

A non-narrative series would be images that do not exist on a time line. Usually you could rearrange the order of these images and the meaning would not be affected. For example, 5 photographs of surfers on the beach each with a different type of surfboard. The order of these images could be rearranged and still have the same meaning. Consistent color, texture, subject matter, camera angles, and/or quality of light all help the viewer understand that images are related as a series.

Come up with something that interests you and also is easy to accomplish. I am more interested in seeing expressive camera angles, and the use of depth of field and shutter blurs to make simple ideas come to life! You will present your work to the class.